The designer has also consolidated his collections under two labels, and moved his men’s and women’s teams closer together in the studio so they can spark off each other — and speak with a similar voice.
He’s also given some of the younger members of his design team the freedom to pick through his formidable archive, and pull out some of his great past work for inspiration.
All of the changes are bearing fruit — and this season was no exception.
There was a dandyish, psychedelic feel to the collection, but it was done with a light touch — a ruffle here, a paisley swirl there, a lone colored stripe — giving the clothes an easy, up-to-the-minute feel.
A felted A-line skirt was adorned with a few colored paisley appliqués, while a navy shiftdress had an orange and red paint splotch pattern around the hem. An apple core design — one of Smith’s early motifs — was picked out in bright red sequins on a black top and trousers.
Tailoring was neat and slim with trousers that gathered gently around the ankle — inspired by a pair of vintage cycling bottoms from Smith’s closet. Outerwear was done in a similarly understated vein, with one aubergine coat decorated with a single thick orange stripe down the front, while a dusty rose coat had a black fur adorning the shoulders.
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