Eric Wilson is InStyle’s fashion news director. For more real-time insights during Fashion Month, follow him on Twitter and Instagram.
Sienna Miller was looking fantastic as she took her seat at Ralph Lauren’s show on Thursday morning, at the start of the final day of New York Fashion Week. Miller wore a black silk dress of Lauren’s design (above), her hair up and smiling, which suddenly reminded me that the Oscars are just over a week away.
Lauren has had some major hits at the Academy Awards of late, so who could he be dressing this year? Kate Winslet, perhaps? Just a guess, but she did look great in his navy dress at the Golden Globes, and little birds are chirping that she might be headed for a repeat performance. Anyway, be sure to check out our Oscars Dress Debate for more inside intel.
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Those hoping to find an Oscars gown on Lauren’s runway, however, might have gone home empty-handed, for the show opened with a study on taupe, and plenty of options for either commanding attention at the office or on the hunt, as in the English countryside. But then things went in multiple directions at once, with a Western-fringed black jacket worn with tuxedo pants, for example, and a dramatic little cocktail dress in what looked like black velvet.
For evening, Lauren’s references were also intentionally mixed, like a sweeping gown in a print that combined paisley with tartan, and liquid-looking gold dresses that suggested the designer is entering his modernist period.
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Costa’s day looks were strong, and certainly there was a lot here for professional women who are bored with the same old suits, since Costa exaggerated his double-breasted classics with what looked like chalk marks, small details of colorful threads, and mixed fabrics. A plaid dress featured different plaids on front and back. Then came more conceptual pieces – and I’ve always thought of Calvin Klein as more minimalist than conceptual. There were exposed shoulder pads à la Margiela, cloth coats with photorealistic prints of fur coats (and fur coats that were actually faux fur coats), and other witty repartee to chew on, such as dresses with large slices of minerals applied as if they were sequins. It was impressive.
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