The news that fashion has anointed a new designer as a star can be signposted in various ways. For Amie Robertson, who debuted her label AV Robertson at London Fashion Week on Saturday morning, the evidence came in the form of front-row guest Marc Jacobs, who had flown in from New York, and a coterie of superstar models including Vogue’s March cover star, Edie Campbell, celebrity offspring Georgia Jagger, and Lineisy Montero, currently in the Chanel campaign.
For a fledgling label, still designed from a bedroom in Robertson’s parents’ house in Manchester, these signals were enough to make the assembled guests at the Tate Britain show sit up and take notice. The show notes crediting Katie Grand also ensured that they paid attention. Grand, who is editor-in-chief of Love magazine, has styled for Prada and works with Jacobs. Her endorsement of an unknown like Robertson is a Big Deal. It turns out that the Central Saint Martins fashion illustration BA graduate met Grand when she completed a year’s internship in 2014 at Marc Jacobs in New York.
Backstage, Robertson – who wore the bookish outfit of pulled-back ponytail, glasses and jumper – was mobbed for squad goal selfies with Jacobs, Grand and friends. These posts are priceless for building buzz – collectively, the designer and stylist share 720,000 followers on Instagram. Robertson, by contrast, is on 1,600. After today that number is bound to increase. “Katie took me under her wing,” said Robertson, who still had the rabbit-in-the-headlights look of someone new to being the centre of attention. “I don’t know why, but it’s great, she’s been amazing.”
Someone more accustomed to the spotlight is Caitlin Price, the London-based designer who had her third outing with Fashion East. Price is building a following who appreciate her mix of streetwear with couture references. For autumn/winter, she used her trademark pastel colours on tracksuits but also long, gathered satin skirts and short bomber jackets. There was an early 00s feel that recalled UK grime artist Lady Sovereign and rapper Lil’ Kim. Price said it was based on the “British ritual of girls getting dressed up to go out” and a “sophistication and glamour, but not quite being able to pull it off”. The cutout silhouettes were inspired by both a Madame Grès dress and a Lycra catsuit designed as clubwear. “It’s about a hybrid,” she said.
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